HURRAH FOR HELLEBORES - the perfect perennial

While most perennials lose their foliage in the fall and go dormant in the winter, there are those, like hellebores that are evergreen. With flowers that blossom in late winter and early spring, cold-season bloomers like these are rare in the flower world. At times the leaves are flattened and flowers droop due to winter frost and snowfall, but before long, they recover when the warmth of the winter sun reappears.

  Folklore dating back to Greek antiquity, and found throughout history, tell of the magical and medicinal qualities of hellebores. Its black roots were known for centuries as a cure for mania and melancholy. Hellebores are said to have the ability to ward off evil spirits, and it’s considered a sensible precaution to plant it as close as possible to the entrance of the home. Ironically, in witchcraft it is believed to be used for summoning demons.

  Hellebores were brought to North America for ornamental use in our gardens around 1850. They are valued for their early and long-lasting flowering period, as well as for their beauty, vigor and deer resistance. Until about 30 years ago, these perennials were uncommon in home gardens.

  Commonly known as hellebores, the genus Helleborus consists of approximately 20 species of evergreen perennial flowering plants. Most of the hellebores readily available today are hybrid crosses of nine species, collectively referred to as Helleborus x hybridus. Mature plants form clumps that are 18” to 24” tall and 24” to 30” wide.

  Native to much of Europe, hellebores (Helleborus) belong to the Ranunculaceae or buttercup family. Like most members of the buttercup family, hellebores are avoided by deer because their leaves, stems, and roots are poisonous.

Leaves - Even when hellebores aren't in flower, their foliage is attractive too. The leaves are palmate with serrated edges and come in different shapes depending on the variety. The leafy stems grow from the base of the plant and are topped with five to nine leaflets. New leaves are smooth initially and turn leathery as they age. Hellebore foliage is glossy and durable and is typically dark green, although there are continually new hybrids with variations of leaf color such as gray-green, blue-green, pewter, and there are others with colorful veins of red, white, silver or mottling. Although the foliage is evergreen, the leaves decline as winter progresses.

Flowers - Hellebores have saucer-shaped flowers, two to three inches in diameter appearing on thick stems that rise above the foliage. There are hybrids in a wide variety of colors which can be pink, yellow, white, cream, green, maroon, or purple. They come in single, semi, and fully double forms, with ruffled or smooth petals. Some varieties have colorful veins or margins, others are spotted or speckled. The blooms on most of the older varieties are downward-facing, but the newer hybrids have more upward-facing flowers.

Growing conditions - Hellebores grow best in well-drained soil, rich in organic matter, but tolerate most growing conditions, with the exceptions of very dry or wet soil. Most prefer partial shade, but some varieties will tolerate sun. While they are mostly thought of as “shade plants,” they are in fact shade-tolerant plants.

  Clumps of hellebores blooming in February or March are a joyful experience to behold. Locate plants to enhance views out of windows or near walkways so that the early blooms may be savored. Group plants in semi-shady locations under trees or large shrubs, woodland gardens or border fronts. When flower stems are left in place, many hellebore hybrids will spread by self-seeding and form an attractive ground cover.

How to care for hellebores - Hellebores require little maintenance, except for cutting back winter-damaged leaves in late winter or early spring. Allow the healthy evergreen foliage to remain on the plant throughout winter. New leaves appear in the spring. Dead or diseased leaves can be pruned at any time of year. Cut leaves back to the base of the plant. Use hand pruners, and wear gloves when handling this plant as the sap of the hellebore can irritate the skin. There is no need to rush in removing the faded flower stems. The flower heads will last through most of the summer and continue to offer ornamental interest in the garden. The showy flower parts are not petals, they are sepals; the sepals remain attached to the plant until late in the season. Cut back flowers by removing the entire stem at the base.

Companion plants for hellebores - Plants that require the same growing conditions:  a wide range of partial sun to shade tolerant perennials, ferns, sedges, grasses, and shrubs. Also include bulbs that bloom at the same time as hellebores.

  There are many hellebore species, cultivars, and hybrids to choose from. With a well-planned selection, you can have hellebore flowers in your garden from January to June. No garden should be without hellebores.

PROPER MULCHING TECHNIQUES ARE THE ROOT TO HEALTHY TREES

Proper mulching techniques are the root to healthy  trees -

“Mulch volcanoes" are extremely harmful to the health of trees. Over-mulching in the shape of a mound around the trunk of the tree is pejoratively referred to as a mulch volcano. Mulch is piled up so high that the trunk flare is buried. The trunk flare is the base of the tree which tapers out just above where the root system begins. A buried trunk flare will lead to disease, decay, root rot and the eventual death of the tree. Over-mulching is a pervasive occurance and painful sight to knowledgeable professionals who see the practice as killing trees with kindness.

The phenomenon of over-mulching began with the intention to prevent mowers and trimmers from damaging tree trunks. Unfortunately, over time, homeowners and landscapers believed that if adding a layer of mulch around the base of a tree was helpful, then a pile of mulch must be even better. When homeowners see landscape professionals adding mulch piled high directly against the trunk of trees, they presume that is the correct method. Landscapers see other professionals mulch this way and think it is the correct way to mulch. And seeing mulch volcanoes everywhere has furthered the misconception that this is the proper way to mulch.

Why mulch volcanoes are bad - Trees with too much mulch around the base of the trunk experience a wide variety of stress. Trees need to breathe. They need oxygen to survive and when buried in mulch, they can’t breathe properly. Roots may grow upward, out of the ground, and into the mulch searching for water and oxygen. Piling mulch against the trunk holds in moisture which can cause the bark to rot. The side effects of over-mulching occur slowly and a tree’s decline will likely be blamed on other problems. Because it is a slow death, there is usually not an associated link. As a tree declines in health, its immune system is weakened, and it becomes more susceptible to attack from insects, diseases, and harmful fungi.

How to repair an over-mulched tree - Remove excess mulch and soil until you expose the flare of the tree. Use a shovel or garden fork, and then rake, being careful not to damage the bark of the tree. If there are roots growing into the mulch, use pruning shears and remove those roots carefully. These are called adventitious roots. Their development can be in response to adverse environmental conditions or stresses, and as they grow in diameter, they can develop into girdling roots. Lastly,  after breaking up any clumps, reapply mulch around the tree to a depth of two to four inches, making sure there is no mulch within four to six inches of the base of the tree.

How to apply mulch - Organic mulch is recommended, meaning mulch that comes from plants as opposed to inorganic mulches such as gravel or decorative rocks. Organic mulch choices can be leaves, bark, pine needles, cocoa shells or wood chips.   

Fresh mulch can go on top of old mulch, but loosen the existing layer first if it’s matted down or crusted to improve drainage and air movement.

Apply the mulch around the tree to a depth of two to four inches, making sure there is no mulch within four to six inches of the base of the tree. The mulch should be spread out almost flat. All of this applies for shrubs and perennials as well.

Why mulch can be beneficial - Mulch conserves soil moisture, moderates soil temperature, reduces growth of weeds, helps protect soil from erosion, prevents frost heaving in winter and adds organic matter to the soil as it breaks down. Mulch makes garden beds and landscapes look more tidy and attractive.

Proper mulching techniques are the root to healthy trees.

LICHENS: ROCK STARS THAT NEVER HAD A NUMBER ONE HIT

Lichens: rock stars that never had a number one hit -

  All of the world's animals, plants, fungi and microbes are connected. Being curious about nature can inspire you to explore the wonders of the natural world. Have you ever taken a close look at lichen? Lichens are all around us and are mostly ignored. But if you tune in to your surroundings, perhaps you will begin to become aware of lichens on rocks, tree bark, soil, gravestones, wood benches, roofs, or fences. Lichens can also grow on glass, metal, plastic and cloth. Lichens are living organisms. Although it looks like a plant, it’s not. In order to survive, lichens need water, light, air, nutrients, and a surface on which it can grow. They get water from rain and fog, and absorb water vapor from the air.

What are lichens?

Until the use of microscopes revealed otherwise, lichens were once classified as single organisms. Magnification showed lichens were two organisms living together in symbiosis: a fungus and an algae. The word symbiosis was invented to describe lichen. The fungus provides support, water, and minerals for the algae, while the algae photosynthesizes, producing food for the fungus.

In recent studies it has become evident that while lichens contain at least two different kinds of life made up of organisms belonging to different kingdoms, they are also ecosystems for many other microorganisms, such as bacteria, yeast, and additional algae and fungi. Lichens are now understood as a community of organisms rather than a simple fungi-algae association.

Appearance:

Lichens come in different forms, colors, and sizes.

There are four main lichen body types: crustose (crusty), fruticose (shrubby), foliose (leafy), and squamulose (scaly).

Lichens can range in color from grey, green, black, white, yellow, orange or red, and almost everything in between. Individual lichens often form mosaics of color.

When dry, lichens appear dull-colored, the color of the fungus. But when wet they are completely transformed when the colors of the algae layers shine like superstars.

Lichens range in size from as small as a shirt button to strands that can be several feet in length.

Lichen habitat:

Lichens are everywhere throughout the world. They are the dominant form of life on about 8 percent of the earth’s surface. Lichens grow in temperate, tropical, and polar regions. They survive in some of the most extreme environments on earth: arctic tundra, high mountain peaks, deserts, and rocky coasts. Lichens can survive a complete loss of water, become dormant, and then rehydrate when water becomes available. To ensure survival, “Lichens produce an arsenal of more than 500 unique biochemical compounds that serve to control light exposure, repel herbivores, kill attacking microbes, and discourage competition from plants," according to the Lichens of North America site.

Uses:

Lichens provide forage, shelter, and building materials for deer and other large animals, as well as birds, rodents, and insects, as described by the USDA Forest Service.

Lichens are used in deodorant, toothpaste, ointments, extracts, perfumes, and dyes for fabric. Some species of lichens are also thought to have medicinal properties.

• Are lichens on trees harmful?

Tree-dwelling lichens are not harmful to trees. They are often mistaken for destructive fungi or diseases, but they are not pathogens or parasites, and do not cause disease. Lichens attach to trees but do not feed off the bark. They produce their own food using sunlight energy (photosynthesis).

On a final note, lichens are a partnership between organisms unlike any other organism on earth. They are all around us and we hardly notice them.

BOXWOOD: A CELEBRATED SHRUB

BOXWOOD: A CELEBRATED SHRUB

  Boxwood has been used since antiquity in gardens throughout the world. It has long been valued for its permanence in the landscape, extremely hard wood, and its medicinal value. This is a long-lived plant, many specimens living considerably more than 100 years.

  Boxwoods are native to western and southern Europe, and portions of Asia, Africa, South America, Central America, and the Caribbean. There are no boxwoods native to North America. Boxwood is the common name for the genus Buxus, and a family relative of Pachysandra.

  Although there are about 90 species of boxwood, just three of them, and their hybrids, make up the majority of boxwood used in landscapes in the United States today. Boxwood was introduced to North America from Europe in the mid-1600’s. According to The American Boxwood Society, the first planting was around 1653 at Sylvester Manor on Shelter Island, New York, using boxwood brought over from Amsterdam.

  Boxwood has a history immersed in myths and truth: these plants were in use among the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans. To the Greeks, boxwood signified strength. Boxwood sprigs have been found in the tombs of Romans. To dream of boxwood was said to foretell long life. Boxwood is one of the few woods heavier than water, and is used for carving, making woodcuts, and constructing precision instruments. Traditionally used in formal gardens, most commonly for hedging, topiaries, and containers, boxwood is an excellent choice for edging, screening and mass foundation plantings. Boxwood cultivar choices offer a variety of shapes, including rounded, columnar, upright, pyramidal or spreading, with sizes ranging from 1-20 feet tall and 2-8 feet wide.

  Deer do not browse boxwood due to distasteful or poisonous alkaloids in the leaves. It is one of the few evergreen shrubs that is usually not damaged by deer and a reason for its widespread use in our area. Unfortunately, when a single plant variety is overused, it becomes vulnerable to disease and insect pests. In reference to a study by the University of California, entomologist William Wetzel said, "A monoculture is like a buffet for plant-eating insects where every dish is delicious.” And a delicious buffet for pathogens, as well.

  “Winter burn” is a common problem of evergreens, including those with “broad leaves”, like boxwood. Leaves do not actually burn but rather dry up. Leaves turn yellow or brown in response to low soil moisture, freezing temperatures and blowing wind. Nurturing healthy boxwood is the best way to protect against insect, disease or winter damage, and in spite of these potential problems, boxwood remain a popular and easy to grow shrub.

Cultural Practices for Boxwood Health    

Light requirements: Boxwood will grow in full sun, but many prefer part shade.

Moisture: Moist, well-drained soil is best. Boxwood do not like wet feet and are highly susceptible to root rot. Once established, they’re drought tolerant and only need water after an extended period of time with no rain.

Mulching: Boxwood are shallow-rooted and benefit from a thin layer of mulch to protect the roots. A thick layer of mulch should be avoided as it may encourage roots to grow above the soil surface, putting them at risk of damage when dried out.

Shearing, pruning and thinning:  A common belief is that it is mandatory for boxwood to be drastically sheared into balls and flat-topped hedges for optimum maintenance. This is actually incorrect. Shearing encourages leaf growth only at the ends of branches, and over time, continual shearing transforms boxwood into a shell of outer leaves with a dead center. With every shearing each branch becomes four to six new branches. This occurs because the apical (dominant) buds have been eliminated, causing plant hormones to inhibit the buds below from growing. Because sunlight and air can’t reach the interior, the plant becomes susceptible to disease. Boxwood should have a green interior, with leaves all the way up the branches. Minimal shearing (no more than once a year) is essential to a healthy boxwood.                                                                                                           

  Why prune? For aesthetics and health. Boxwood can be pruned by hand to shape them to improve the overall appearance. Branches that are too long can be cut back from inside the shrub. This is “selective pruning”, as opposed to “shearing”, which is non-selective. When shaping, taper them so that the bottom is broader than the top, to ensure the entire plant will be exposed to sunlight.

Prune dead branches, remove any debris or fallen leaves from the interior, and thin the plant by removing some of the branches from the center of the plant. Thinning and cleanup allows sunlight and air to reach the interior of the plant which promotes new growth, helps to prevent disease, and increases the longevity of boxwood.

To learn more:

www.boxwoodsociety.org/abs_care

www.saundersbrothers.com/_ccLib/attachments/pages/Boxwood+Guide+copy.pdf